Fairbanks

We started north towards the Arctic Circle at 5:00 am. The half-filled (to avoid a spill) Styrofoam cup of coffee was going to go a long ways in keeping the yawns at bay. Three guests and a guide climbed aboard the Northern Alaska Tour Company van for the nine-hour trek to arctic Alaska. The pre-dawn light was reminiscent of early waits for the school bus and we were preparing for one phenomenal field trip.

Ryan, our college-aged guide, placed the foot stool in front of the side doors and graciously helped everyone in. Being the solo traveler, I was placed up front—to keep my eyes peeled for wildlife! (10-4 on making that coffee last as long as possible.) Glenn and Susan perched in the first row. Intrepid travelers, they’d been on the road since April exploring Alaska. Coming to Interior Alaska had been on their bucket list. Retirees from California, now living on the Big Island of Hawai’i, one couldn’t have wished for more appealing traveling companions.

Being on what’s called a fly/drive tour, there was plenty of opportunity to check out Interior Alaska communities—Joy, Alaska anyone? A speck amid rugged wilderness, Joy is the home to the Carlson family and their Arctic Circle Trading Post. Joe and Nancy Carlson ventured into the Interior looking for someone to breed their lone goat with and live off the land. Over a quarter century later, they’re still here, welcoming travelers North with free hot coffee and a two-story trading post of Alaska gifts and crafts to take back home. It wasn’t even 7:00 am and you got the feeling Joe had already been up awhile—making ready for the intermittent visitors.

Rolling up the road through a misty morning fog, Ryan’s lilting voice guided us through the history of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System. TAPS for short, the pipeline dissects the state north to south crossing 800 miles of tundra, mountain ranges and river valleys. Completed in 1977, the pipeline is an engineering marvel. Taking into account the environment, potential natural disasters and longevity the builders were thinking into the future and this part of the country is bespeckled with its history. A few pictures later, we’re back on the road—inching closer to Alaska’s largest river.

Crossing the only bridge over the Yukon River, Ryan pauses as his three guests marvel at the massive river below us. The fifth largest river in the world by volume, the Yukon is the life-blood of this region. With its headwaters in the Canadian Yukon, the river flows east to west through Alaska in the heart of the Arctic. We pull off the road at the Yukon River Camp and pick up our pre-ordered lunches. Well before noon, we stash them in our backpacks and continue north.

The fog has since blown away and revealed hillsides bright pink with fireweed. As if staring at a painting, I paste my forehead against the window in disbelief. Nature’s bouquets sprawl across the alpine tundra. We start to climb into the foothills of the Brooks Range and take another stop at Finger Mountain—our last stop before the Arctic Circle. With time to get out and wander, take pictures and eat lunch, Finger Mountain is a welcome invitation to say you hiked around in the Arctic. With giant rock outcrops, Finger Mountain serves as a plateau to take in a breathtaking 360° view.

At North 66°33’, an imaginary line dots across the circumpolar North. We’ve arrived at the Arctic Circle and Ryan is not short on pomp and circumstance. With red carpet and all, we walk across a literal dotted line pressed into a rug and claim our official Arctic Circle Adventure Certificate.

Coldfoot, Alaska is the terminus of our 265-mile drive. Once a workers camp for the building of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline, Dick Mackey (father of famed musher Lance Mackey) re-invented Coldfoot as a truck stop. It’s changed hands over the years, but its purpose remains much the same. Coldfoot is a welcome respite during a long drive up or down the “haul road”—otherwise known as the Dalton Highway, a 414-mile gravel road that starts north of Fairbanks and ends in Deadhorse, Alaska.

Ryan drops us off at the Coldfoot airport and we’re greeted by the quintessential Alaska bush pilot—Jason. Sauntering across the gravel runway in Levis, aviators and a worn-in ball cap, Jason welcomes us aboard a Piper Navajo Chieftan. With a row to myself in the 8-seater plane, I put on the provided headphones. It’s a short flight back to Fairbanks through the Koyukuk River valley. The views from the air competing with those we just drove through. The wilderness is lush and green and I rest my head back and start to take in the day. For surely this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip.

Landing in Fairbanks I was a bit saddened to say goodbye to Susan and Glenn. We’d shared something special. With the exchanging of e-mail addresses (and a hug and kiss on the cheek from Glenn!) we went our separate ways—I’m sure to forever remember the day we spent in the Arctic.